BIDDINGTON'S SHOPPING & GALLERY BIDDINGTON'S
APPRAISALS & VALUATIONS
Buenos Aires Restaurants
Wining & Dining in Argentina
Editor's Note: Jake Biddington reports in this March 2008 installment of The Bentley.
Anyone who visits Buenos Aires and experiences only steak hasn't been applying himself. In this sophisticated city, the cuisines available are many and varied. For foreigners, the pleasure/value ratio remains extraordinarily favorable despite the signs of inflation that see newly printed menus sprouting all over town. Agriculture looms large in the Argentine economy. Its farm-grown riches bring to mind rural France or America's breadbasket. In the markets and on the menus, quality meats, fish, grains, fruits, produce and herbs abound. If you're starved for a vine-ripened tomato or a delicate white peach, travel to Argentina in January.
A Typical Restaurant Corner in the Buenos Aires Neighborhood of Palermo Soho
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New Arrivals
Quimbombó--Debut Jan 2008. Both visitors and long time residents of Buenos Aires are welcoming this handsome Indian style restaurant. While not spicy-hot, the flavors are intense and fragrant with real Basmati rice that costs a fortune at wholesale due to high import duties in Argentina. Try the thali for two. Our only quibble is that the wine list lacks lower priced selections. Why not add a wine for Quara, Postales del Fin de Mundo or Callia when they offer such good value?
Palermo Soho: Costa Rica between Armenia and Malabia. 4831 5556.
Datil--Debut: Jan 2008. In a beautiful 2nd and 3rd floor corner space overlooking the street, this Kosher restaurant presents fine Mediterranean food with style. In few other Buenos Aires restaurants is the diner treated to such lovely china and quality linens. Happily, the well-chosen wine list includes interesting non-Kosher selections. Like many new spots in Palermo Soho, Datil pitches to a more sophisticated crowd than the young 20's who throng to Plaza Serrano.
Palermo Soho: El Salvador and Malabia.
Quiroz--Debut: December 2007. With music slated to begin on Thursdays in March and a congenial owner, this chic indoor-outdoor restaurant is slated to become a popular spot for eating and hanging attracting a mix of local Soho businessfolk, fashion-istas and well-heeled tourists.
Palermo Soho: Malabia and Gorriti.
Al Interior--Debut: September 2007. The chef Mauro is an avowed foodie who selects the meats and wines for this modest-looking, reasonably priced restaurant as though every lunch and dinner were an event. The meat is likely to come from a friend's farm and the wine from a tiny vineyard. Passion is a good thing in a restauranteur.
Palermo Soho: Malabia between Niceto Vega and Córdoba. 4779 2463.
Capo--Debut: June 2007. The cosmopolitan background of the well-traveled management is apparent in this elegant pasta restaurant across from the former public laundry in Palermo Soho. When a mixed antipasto includes swordfish-kebobs, it's no surprise that the main course pastas are
flavorful and interesting. A well-selected wine list offers good choices across a broad price spectrum.
Palermo Soho: Gurruchaga 1946. 4833 0768.
Uanchu--Reopened: Feb 2008
Live jazz is the real draw at this resto/bar that keeps irregular hours, but the salads and sandwiches are imaginative and fresh. Wi-fi.
Palermo Soho: Guatemala 4778 (near Borges). 4831-2435
Where Locals Go In Buenos Aires
Kendra
At lunch indoors or out, for an inventive mixed salad or a burger with chunky fries, this lovely corner restaurant can't be beat. At nighttime, Kendra turns more elegant with a good wine selection to complement the Argentine dishes such as Patagonian lamb, pastas and a delicious baked salmon. The proximity to the Viruta Tango makes Kendra a natural stop for a late dinner prior to hitting the milonga scene or for a good glass of wine. A boutique hotel (www.palermosoholoft.com) with just four gorgeous rooms has been recently added on its upper floors.
Palermo Soho: Cabrera 4802 (at Armenia). 4773 0968.
Restaurant Row near Viruta Tango on Armenia Street in Buenos Aires
Lo de Jesus
More than just a parrilla with good beef, this spot offers specialty items such as a classic paella + wine combo (Tuesday night only). High-end wines, (plus the moderately-priced standards), draw an upmarket (but casual) audience.
Palermo Soho: Gurruchaga 1406 (at Cabrera). 4831-1961.
Bar 6
Well, let's say the more upmarket locals go here. A large and lovely space, this all-day resource serves varied fare from desayuno (breakfast) through dinner.
Palermo Soho: Armenia 1676. 4833 6807.
El Traphiche
At dinner, this typically Porteño, brightly lit barn of a parrilla fills with the ubiquitous young families, grannies, businessmen and couples.
Palermo Hollywood: Paraguay and Humboldt.
Olsen
Surprising though it may seem, THE brunch destination for Palermo Hollywood is a Scandinavian restaurant housed in an airplane hangar of a space on Gorriti. Phone ahead or be prepared for an hour's wait--a wait totally justified by the preliminary breads alone. The salmon gravlax melts in your mouth--but the herring is a little al dente for my taste.
Palermo Hollywood: Gorriti 5870. 4776-7677.
Chef Uisef
In the Armenian/Arabe section of Palermo Soho, this eating barn is jammed nightly with diners enjoying wonderful mid-eastern fare such a kefte (chopped beef) a la parrilla and variations on the ubiquitous eggplant. Presenting tasty, wholesome food, at incredibly reasonable prices, this is a favorite destination for extended families and work groups.
Palermo Soho: Malabia between Cabrera and Niceto Vega.
Regional Argentine Cuisine
Patagonia
Located in Argentina's cold and grassy southern region, Patagonia is the source of trout, game and extraordinary lamb. Like the high desert American Southwest, Patagonia conjures up mystical and romantic connotations.
Divina Patagonia
Whether deep-water South Atlantic centollas (crabs), wild boar, deer or fabulous Patagonian lamb, the food at Divina Patagonia is presented with loving appreciation of its sources. Seasoned with mixtures of regional herbs and accompanied by freshly baked multigrain breads, dining at this comfortable restaurant in a restored house in trendy Palermo Hollywood is a taste experience. An adventuresome and varied selection of Argentine wines complements the food. If you can't make the trip to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, go here instead. Especially recommended: stuffed leg of lamb accompanied with a bonarda wine.
Palermo Hollywood: Honduras 5710. 4771-6864.
Tucuman
With borders stretching from the 24th to the 54th parallels of latitude and from the Atlantic coast to the high Andes, Argentina produces regional cuisines reflecting a diversity of geography and cultures. On the eastern slope of the Andes, the province of Tucuman near northern Chile and Bolivia makes a regional cuisine built around spicy and agridulce meat and vegetable stews called guisos. These one-dish delights include all the food groups. In Tucuman cooking, vegetables including carrots, corn or potatoes and fruits such as peaches serve as ingredients in a sweet carbonada, in a spicy locro stew, or as filling in a savory empanada.
La Paila
The traditional dome oven is visible from the dining room and folkloric Argentine music performances often accompany the fare in this roomy and comfortable peña and restaurant. (Peñas are centers of musical entertainment and culture; in Buenos Aires, they have a rich history of drawing not only musicians from the interior but also local literary and visual art figures.)
Palermo Soho: Costa Rica 4848. 4833-3599.
La Cupertina
In a corner building Palermo, this extremely modest storefront venue is home to great authentic Tucuman guisos and plump, vegetable-filled empanadas and empanadotas (double-wide empanadas). Save room for millehojas--a traditional meringue-encrusted torte of crackers and dulce de leche. This dessert is the treat of choice for birthday and other significant celebrations. Take-out and delivery are available.
Palermo Soho: Cabrera 5300. 4777 3711.
La Querencia
As is typical of regional Argentina restaurants, La Querencia's decor leans toward the woody and spartan with the lighting is a bit too bright, but the guisos and pastel de papas (a veal version of a shepherd's pie) are wholesome and tasty. Though not a part of the regional cuisine, the select-your-own-ingredients salad here is one of those homey, healthy touches that makes it possible to eat out every day in Buenos Aires without sacrificing nutritional standards and balance in the diet.
Recoleta: Junín and Juncal. 4821-1888.
The Foodie Channel in BsAs
Like high-speed Internet, cable TV is ubiquitous in Buenos Aires. For devoted dinners interested in exploring Argentina's cuisine beyond steak al la parrilla, the El Gourmet station (channel 41) offers much information on regional cuisines and wines in Argentina. It's in Spanish, but the content is readily apparent from visuals and recipe information. Online at: www.elgourmet.com.
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Cocktails in Buenos Aires
Mott
Indoor/outdoor, with a fireplace in winter, this large renovated factory space is well-designed and appealing to the eye--as is its clientele. Cocktails here are given serious attention and the wine-by-the-glass selection worth exploring.
Palermo Soho: El Salvador 4685. 4833-4306.
Uriarte Bar
With its long bar and "living" seating, this cool spot fills a niche for visitors who are having a hard time adjusting to Argentine dining hours that typically start around 10 pm.
Palermo Soho: Uriarte 1572.
Pink Gin
The coat & tie crowd here is circa 1970, still for a real cocktail and a huge serving of picadas (bar snacks) before a jazz set at Notorious or cabaret at Clasica y Moderna, this wood-paneled bar will certainly do.
Recoleta/Barrio Norte: Riobamba near Santa Fe.
Cero
In Buenos Aires where beautiful women are awash on the streets and where all but the very rich drive clunkers, the real objects of desire are automobiles. In this pizza bar/cafe, the model of choice is the Morris Mini. It's a strange spot, but they mix a nice Bellini.
Recoleta: Libertador and Tagle.
Guilty Pleasures/ Cheap Eats
OK. I'll just say it: Should I never make another profitable trade, I could survive happily on empanadas and vino tinto.
Of course, as in all things, quality is everything. I find take out empanadas from even the best confiterias or bakeries to be soggy and unappetizing. To date, on what I hope will be an exhaustive empanada tasting, my favorites are served at the mother-ship location of wood oven pizzeria called Romarios (on Cabello in the more bourgeois section of Palermo). |
Ethnic Restaurants in Buenos Aires
Import costs are to blame for the fact that ethnic restaurants in Buenos Aires run more expensive than the ones featuring local cuisine. For satisfying the palate of any long-term visitor, access to a broad range of spices and cuisines is invaluable.
Katmandu
For those of us who sometimes need to sweat through a meal to feel healthy, a visit to Katmandu, a spacious Indian restaurant on Avenida Corrientes, fills the bill. The menu in this restaurant where mostly English is spoken lists the following options for spicy heat: mild, hot and Indian hot. With Indian hot, they also serve a hot sauce on the side, to which I would apply the designation "lethal". (But perhaps I'm out of training.) The chapati here is more interesting than the nan, the lamb is excellent and even aloo gobi--the most basic vegetarian dish--is subtly spiced. Since the portions are on the small side, you'll need to order at least three dishes resulting in a fairly high tab by local standards. Still, the place is comfortable enough to attract not only homesick programmers but also couples on dates, so it's worth paying up a little.
Palermo Viejo/Abasto: Corrientes and Bulnes.
María Félix
Offering garaged valet parking, the very large Palermo Soho outpost of a popular Mexican restaurant chain hosts a crush of clients from the northern suburbs on Friday and Saturday nights. Otherwise, reservations are optional. The ambitious menu goes well beyond Tex-Mex to include classic soups and other traditional selections from real Mexican cuisine. The location is convenient to small hotels such as Bobo and Esplendour.
Palermo Soho: Juan Justo and Guatemala. 4775 0380.
Guadalajara de Noche
Located near the former public laundry in Palermo Soho, this modest restaurant displays the vivid, cheerful colors of Mexico making a bold contrast to the somber Porteño palette of blacks and browns. The truth is that Porteños are also hopelessly white-bread in their tolerance of bright, burning spices. Guadalajara de Noche is one of the few Mexican spots in town where they will serve (upon request) a truly spicy salsa. The food is just OK, but for spice, salty tortilla chips and mariachis, this is the place.
Palermo Soho: Gurruchaga 1881. 4832-8971.
Cielito Lindo
Unless you arrive really, really early, be prepared for a wait at this slightly cramped, yet pleasantly staffed Mexican restaurant with so-so food in Soho. It draws a student-age crowd.
Palermo Soho: El Salvador 4999. 4832 8054.
Surprisingly, these two totally fashionable ethnic spots--one Asian, one Berber--are under the same ownership:
Green Bamboo
With its 50's retro furnishings and cocktail bar, Green Bamboo is a hot little spot for assuaging those nagging Indochine cravings. As the evening wears on, the soundtrack and ambiance morph into club mode.
Palermo Hollywood: Costa Rica 5802. 4775-7050.
Bereber
Unlikely as it may seem, this specialty North African restaurant on the park in Soho is a favorite spot for the prosperous 30-something dating crowd. Dining options include rooftop, tables or floor. The merguez couldn't be better, but order several different dishes or you'll go home hungry.
Palermo Soho: Armenia 1880. 4833-5662.
With an Armenian church, school, recreational and cultural centers plus a mid-eastern (never say Turkish) restaurant, the 1300 block on Armenia in Palermo Soho is the power vortex of the Armenian community in Buenos Aires. Interestingly, the basement of the cultural center is also home to La Viruta--a milonga where you can tango your heels off Wednesday through Sunday from midnight until 6am.
Viejo Agump
When your body cries out for healthy Mediterranean vegetables such as berenjena (eggplant) & tomatoes, yoghurt & cucumber or Persian rice topped with shredded chicken, this Armenian restaurant is the answer. On weekends, make areservation.
Palermo Soho: Armenia 1382. 4773-5081.
Jake's Favorites In Buenos Aires
Estilo Criollo--Best typically Argentine meal
This restaurant, a parrilla with asador (an iron tripod on which certain cuts are roasted, bears testimony to the agricultural wealth of Argentina's wet pampas. For a change from steak try vacío or tira de asado, cuts that are harder to eat but whose pungent flavors are worth the effort. With a chorizo appetizer, Criollo salad and a bottle of Alamos reserve malbec, this is the quintessential Argentine meal.
Palermo Soho: Serrano between Cabrera and Gorriti.
Hermann's--Best wursthaus
A Buenos Aires institution, this classic German-style cerveceria serves a great little steak or sausage and sauerkraut in a pleasant, bright environment. The narrow wooden booths with their flip-up seats make the place feel as though it belongs in a 20's movie.
Botanico: Santa Fe and Armenia.
Cluny--Leisurely lunch
Claiming a French heritage, the spacious restaurant pleases for a relaxed lunch break from Soho shopping.
Palermo Soho: El Salvador 4618. 4831 7176.
More South American Destinations:
Restaurant Guide to Buenos Aires--2008
Northern Argentina: Jujuy Province, Humahuaca & Tilcara
Northwest Argentina: Tucumán, Salta & Cafayate
Santiago & Valparaiso, Chile
Tigre, Argentina--Day Trip from Buenos Aires
San Antonio de Areco, Argentina--Weekend Trip from Buenos Aires
Colonia, Uruguay--Overnight Trip near Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires--Basic Guide
Travel Guide to Montevideo, Uruguay
More Argentina Information at Biddingtons:
Catalina Chervin--Contemporary Argentine Artist
Guillermo Cuello--Contemporary Argentine Painter
Eduardo Fausti--Natural History Paintings
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